This is just a tutorial for a deck I made early in the beta of The Elder Scrolls Legends. I used to play in a One turn Lethal style back then, which is kind of as control as a deck can get. You basically control the board and not hit your opponent at all, when you have enough damage on the board you hit your opponent. When your opponent hits a prophecy, you pretty much deal with it and start from the beginning again.
Game: The Elder Scrolls Legends
Publisher: Bethesda Softworks
Developer: Dire Wolf Digital
Distributor: ZeniMax Media
Tutorial: Red and Blue control deck
Author of this article: Peekaboo
Time of testing: Early Beta
Hello and welcome to my Red and Blue color deck tutorial. My name Is Peekaboo and I have played Hearthstone for over a year. I have developed a liking toward control styled decks, so it should come to no surprise that this deck is a control deck aswell!
I have played over 50 games with this deck, making minor adjustments every 3 – 7 games. I think this deck is far from perfect, but it’s a good budget deck if you are first starting out in Elder Scrolls Legends. Beware though, I couldn’t get this deck higher than rank 7. So established Elder Scrolls Legends players might want to look for another tutorial. But if you like a control styled deck that can deal with almost any creature your opponent places on the board read on!
Without further ado, let’s dive into the deck.
The different purposes of this deck.
The deck has a heavy emphasis on controlling the board mainly with creature abilities. You will find no charge creatures in this deck and no spells that damage the face (with expection of Lighting Bolt, and Shocking Wamasu). The cards that are in this deck almost all serve to get that precious 2-for-1 value with cards such as Cruel Firebloom, Brutal Ashlander, High Rock Summoner etc. The cards in this deck can also heavily disrupt your opponent’s playstyle with cards such as Winter’s Grasp, Withered Hand Cultist, Shrieking Harpy and Cast Out. Aswell as just plain remove your opponents creatures with cards such as Firebolt and Firestorm.
The ultimate goal of this deck.
The Elder Scrolls Legends brings a new mechanic to card games, it allows your opponent (or you) to draw a card when a certain number of health is reached. This is ofcourse a nice mechanic which allows for players to come back from dire situations, but it has one major flaw. It requires the opponent to attack you! This is where this deck excels. Because you can control the board so heavily you will get a lot of favorable trades (killing your opponents creatures without your creatures dying). Every time you make a favorable trade you gain 1 card advantage over your opponent. This translates into having 1 more card in play than your opponent, which, over a few turns and a few more favorable trades, translates into having more cards in hand than your opponent.
To emphasize on this mechanic even further you have to refrain from attacking your opponent to below 26 health, ever (well not forever, but we will get to that). If you do this, in combination with the favorable trades mentioned above, you will eventually, at turn 10 – 15, have around 6 cards in hand, as opposed to your opponent, which will have around 0 – 1 card(s) in hand! He will be forced to topdeck and play any creature he draws immediately.
You don’t attack just yet.
At this point in the match you have all the control. You can deal with any creature your opponent plays on the board and there is nothing much your opponent can do about it.
Try to keep making favorable trades and eventually you will have an army that can do as much damage as your opponent’s health in one turn.
Now you attack (finally)!
This is the point that you attack. Keep in mind that you always try to pop at least one carddraw with each attack and attack with the weakest creatures first. In the case that your opponent draws a prophecy and chooses to play it, make sure to check if you still have lethal over your opponent, regardless of the played prophecy card. If you still have lethal, keep attacking but…
If you don’t have lethal after your opponent plays a prophecy card.
Deal with the prophecy card first. After you have dealt with the card you have to make sure to check if you can do any more damage to your opponent without giving him a single card, he has already drawn at least one card from your assault and you don’t want to give him any more!
And back to the beginning again.
After you have dealt with the prophecy card end the turn and start from the beginning again. Keep making favorable trades and deal with the creatures your opponent plays on the board until you have enough damage for a 1-turn-lethal and try to defeat your opponent again with a 1-turn-lethal.
Removed cards (and why)
1 Magicka – Crown Quartermaster
While this card is fine, it’s value gets overshadowed by Brutal Ashlander. Crown Quartermaster is essentially a 3/1. For 2 Magicka these stats aren’t valuable. Crown Quartermaster just doesn’t fit this deck because it won’t get 2-for-1 value by itself.
1 Magicka – Steel Scimitar
Another fine card, yet I personally think this card uses a valuable slot in my deck. It prevents me from drawing other cards which add more value to the deck’s playstyle. The 2/2 stat addition for 1 mana is extremely useful, yet it doesn’t seem valuable in this deck where every card has some way of controlling the board instead of just plain strength.
2 Magicka – Dunmer Nightblade
Dunmer Nightblade is a great card at first sight, and perhaps a great card for a rush deck. But this card doesn’t add value to this deck because you only get the Steel Sword after Nightblade has been destroyed. After! So you have to wait at least a whole turn to get the Steel Sword. This makes that you can’t get value from this card until after it has been destroyed, that is if it hasn’t been silenced first.
2 Magicka – Skilled Blacksmith
Skilled Blacksmith is a great card and it has earned a place in this deck for a long time. But as I adjusted my deck with minor adjustments I took out a lot of weapons, which decreased the value of Skilled Blacksmith with a ton. I only have 2 items in the not-so-final version of the deck. So it only seemed logical to take Skilled Blacksmith out of the deck, he will be missed.
2 Magicka – Plunder
A great card, a great card! Such a great card, why did I remove it you ask? Simply put, because of the same reason I removed Skilled Blacksmith. The deck has outgrown Items. The value comes from each individual card, not items. This is the same reason I took out: 3 Magicka – Assassin’s Bow, 3 Magicka – Rihad Battlemage, 3 Magicka – Mace of Encumbrance, 5 Magicka – Dragonstar Rider, 6 Magicka – Whirling Duelist and 6 Magicka – Master of Arms.
6 Magicka – Orb of Vaermina
A great card indeed, but much too situational. Ofcourse this card could change a game, but so can Moment of Clarity! But ofcourse, if you don’t have acces to Moment of Clarity, you should play this card.
7 Magicka – Goldbrand
A great card, a great card! But why isn’t this card that is obviously all about controlling creatures not in a deck that’s all about controlling creatures? Because it is too slow. The 7 mana makes it that most ideally, you can play this card at turn 6 and most un-ideally(?) you will play this card much later.
The reason this card is too slow is because of the 2 damage that it starts with. You will rarely find a creature at (let’s be realistic here) turn 15 that has 2 health! The real value starts when this card deals 4 damage and 6 damage. But the 2 starting damage is what bothers me, I mean come on, 2 damage! But if you don’t have acces to 3 copies of Shocking Wamasu, you should play this card.
Key in control vs out of control decisions
When out of control you will always want to play your creatures favorably. You want to position your creatures so that you get at least a 1-for-1 trade. This is where Cunning Ally comes in handy. Early in the game when you will still be fighting for board control as your opponent still has 4 – 5 cards in hand you want to trade your expendable creatures into the opponent’s creatures.
You want to make sure that you always play your creatures second when out of control. Which means that you only ever spawn your creatures in response to the opponent’s creatures.
When you are in control however, you want to use your expendable creatures to protect your weakened creatures. For example, Cunning Ally just killed off a 2/3 and is at 1 health. You want to play a Wardcrafter or a Breton Conjurer beside it so that your opponent won’t be able to remove it so quickly. If the weakened creature is in the Shadow lane, you must ofcourse consider Dres Renegade to protect it.
When your opponent has 0 – 2 cards in hand, and hasn’t played anything on his turn while his side of the board is empty, you must start building your army. A quick way to do this is ofcourse by playing Expert or Supreme Atromancer. Breton Conjurer is a card that will also contribute to this. But do not focus solely on the big creatures. Even the little creatures can help contribute to get the lethal damage you need, especially when combined with Merric-At-Aswala. But even without Merric-At-Aswala, the 4 damage from Shocking Wasabu and/or Lighting Bolt can help to give you lethal. It’s nice to keep any weapon you draw from Plunder behind until you have enough for lethal. It will surprise your opponent and he will have no way to deal with it when you attack for lethal. Aside from Prophecy draws ofcourse.
The above are the most key strategies for setting up and defeating your opponent with a 1-turn-lethal. You will, with experience, develop more refined strategies to set up and defeat your opponent with a 1-turn-lethal.
Top priority cards
Wardcrafter is the single most important card of this deck, the card that all other cards ride on. It’s the card that takes the Holy Grail.
This card is capable of riding the 2-for-1 train almost every time it enters the battlefield. And what’s best is that it can give it’s ward to any creature, including itself. That makes the flexibility of this card endless and it’s value, unlike Brutal Ashlander, will never drop.
A close, very close second: Brutal Ashlander.
Yes, Brutal Ashlander is an amazing card. 1 mana kill another 1 Magicka and potentially a 2 Magicka aswell. This card will almost always get a 2-for-1. And what’s best? It costs 1 Magicka!
This card gives you amazing value.
Did your opponent summon a lane full of 1/1’s? No problem for Skaven Pyromancer. Did your opponent summon a Slaughterfish in each lane? No problem for, wait a minute. Well at least you can take 1 out for free. And that is where the value lies with this card. Skaven Pyromancer is a great cleaning-up card. You should always aim to destroy creatures with 1 health or 1 health remaining with this card’s summon ability. This card is so good at cleaning creatures up, they should call it Skaven Pyrocleaner! Moving on…
This card is amazing at disrupting your opponent’s playstyle.
Usually your opponent will play a support card which at least one other card relies on. This is where this card gets its amazing value. For example the card Divine Fervor (Bethesda why?). This card buffs each and every creature of your opponent that are in play. It’s extremely annoying, but luckily, Vicious Dreugh to the rescue! The 3/4 stats for 4 Magicka isn’t worth it in itself, so unless you absolutely have to play it, try to hold on to this card until your opponent plays a support card.
This card serves the purpose of this deck very well. It helps you control the board with a silence effect and also allows you to trade most 1 Magicka creatures into 2 and even 3 Magicka creatures. But the strength and importance of this card is the silence effect. It allows you to silence any buffed up creature or just an ability of a creature which heavily disrupts your opponent’s playstyle. Try to aim for creatures that buff other creatures when using this card, for example Fifth Legion Trainer, which gives other creatures +1/+0 when they are summoned, or Summerset Shieldmage, which gives other friendly creatures in its lane +0/+1.
But try to refrain from wasting your silence on creatures which have drain or creatures such as Bruma Profiteer, which gives your opponent 1 health when he or she summons a creature. You will be able to shave that extra health off when you are in control of the board.
Important (but not top priority) cards (I know it’s very confusing)
High Rock Summoner
You guessed it, another amazing card (but not top priority). This card is really good, but It’s not essential to the deck. The only Attronach that you could draw that would benefit this deck is the Frost Attronach, because it can protect your other creatures with the taunt. That doesn’t mean that the other Attronach’s aren’t a nice addition, because that is exactly what they are, a nice addition.
But why is High Rock Summoner an important card?
High Rock Summoner has the ability to not summon, but DRAW an attronach! Why am I so excited about this?
High Rock Summoner may have terrible stats for 2 Magicka, but that’s okay, it helps deal damage to creatures and even trades with some 1 Magicka creatures when played early.
But the real value in this card lies in the fact that you get to choose when you play the extra Attronach you just acquired from a 2 Magicka cost card, talk about value!
The stats of this card are bad for 4 Magicka, but the strength and value of this card lies in the summon ability.
Being able to deal 1 damage to your opponent’s creatures in 1 lane makes this card extremely flexible, like Skaven Pyromancer it is able to destroy an army of 1/1’s aswell as being able to clean up 1 health creatures.
This card should not ever replace the Skaven Pyromancer. Because the Skaven Pyromancer just plain overshadows this card. It has way better health and reduced Magicka cost so I can be played extremely early. Use this card only when you have it and do not craft it, because there are other epics you can craft that are way more important.
If you don’t have acces to this card I would suggest using 2x Fireball instead.
This card is not cheap, but its value makes up for it’s Magicka cost.
Don’t let its 1/1 stats fool you, its value lies in the 5/5 that gets summoned after it loses its ward. And in combination with a ward from Wardcrafter… Just make sure to say sorry to your opponent!
Cards to be used with careful consideration (or just by testing them in your deck!)
Expert Atromancer & Supreme Atromancer
These cards are amazing. Absolutely amazing. But despite it’s awesomeness, this card should be used with a grain of salt.
Expert Atromancer summons you 2 Flame Attronach’s and gives you a 3/3 as a bonus in a lane of your choosing. The card is amazing in itself because it’s essentially 3 creatures spread over 2 lanes for 9 Magicka. There is nothing much to be explained here, except that you get tremendous value because your opponent will have to commit multiple cards to deal with this (or one single Ice Storm but that’s only against blue users).
The upgraded version (Supreme Atromancer) however, should be used sparingly.
Don’t get me wrong, it can be used in the right situation. The reason you need to pick the right situation to use this card is because you will want to deliberately destroy (or get destroyed) the 3/3 which deals 2 damage to your opponent when you summon another (thankfully another) creature.
You do not want to spawn any creatures in this situation because the 2 damage could potentially give your opponent a card. Even if it won’t, the breakthrough damage from the Flame Attronach’s might damage your opponent enough on a later turn to give him a card.
For this reason you want to destroy the 3/3 at all cost before you summon another creature.
2-for-1 (favorable trades) explained
Okay so what is the deal with this “favorable trades” mechanic? Is it even a mechanic? Or is it just a slang word? I shall explain below.
Basically you and your opponent have (in most cardgames) almost always the same amount of cards in your decks, with a variance of 10 – 20 cards, but the most common number for cards in decks is around 60.
Every turn you draw 1 card, normally speaking. There is no possible way to bypass this except by committing a card to drawing more cards, usually the card that draws a card has used it’s value by doing exactly that, drawing another card or two.
Now imagine that your opponent plays a card. For example a 1/1. You respond with a 1/2. Your opponent is shocked, because he cannot deal with your single 1/2 card with his single 1/1 card alone! He needs to commit another card to the board to deal with the 1/2. Now ofcourse firebolt would be good here and that would cut the losses of your opponent, by dealing with your single card with a single card of his own, he does not lose any cards because you both have lost 1 card in the trade.
But say you play a 1/3 instead of a 1/2. Now your opponent’s single Firebolt does not destroy your 1/3! Nor does the single 1/1. So your opponent needs to commit both the 1/1 and the Firebolt to destroy your 1/3 creature!
In other words, your opponent has played 2 cards to deal with 1 card of your own. This is called a 2-for-1 trade. You should always try to make these favorable trades. Especially in this deck!